As the temperatures begin to drop and the leaves morph into vibrant hues of red, yellow, and orange, the desire to break out my chunky sweaters, puffy coats, oversized scarves, and wooly hats couldn’t be stronger. Even though I’m not a fan of the windy and rainy weather that comes along with the fall season, my fondness for fall fashion and the increased range of styling options the season offers makes it slightly more tolerable.
If you’re also a self-proclaimed fashion enthusiast, then you’re probably aware that autumn is an exciting season for haute couture (referring to high fashion and custom-fitted clothing), with many of the most prestigious fashion houses displaying their collections during fashion weeks across New York, London, Milan, and Paris in September and early October. Paris Fashion Week, in particular, created quite a stir in recent weeks with Balenciaga’s outlandish mud-pit show for their Summer 2023 collection, which became an overnight meme on TikTok. High fashion is no stranger to outlandish and sometimes inaccessible conceptualizations, which has compelled many of us on the outside of the industry to question the purpose of it all.
Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli once said, “In difficult times, fashion is always outrageous.” Considering the endless political and economic turmoil plaguing the world within the past three years, this quote is very relevant in today’s fashion scene. The Balenciaga mud-pit did serve a symbolic purpose. Denma, Creative Director of Balenciaga, explained to Vogue magazine that the setting of the show was a “metaphor for digging for truth and being down to earth […] Individualism in fashion is downgraded to pseudo trends dictated by a post in stories of some celebrity of the moment.” Denma also went on to share that he no longer feels it’s necessary to explain or verbalize his designs, as he is attempting to “express a state of mind.”
Denma’s Spring 2023 collection was also reflective of his desire to conceptualize the various states of society’s psyche. He presented designs ideologically inspired by the apparent decline of American capitalism, setting the show right at the crux of American consumerism in the New York Stock Exchange building. The models donned expressionless latex gimp masks paired with wide, intrusive shoulder pads under Adidas tracksuits and business attire. The striking contrasts between the structured pieces and baggier silhouettes with the all-black color scheme, nearly gave the models a mannequin-esque appearance. The notorious stock exchange screens displayed the flickering names of several powerful corporations such as Disney, Bank of America, and Twitter, just to name a few. For an added dystopian “vibe,” an eerie, futuristic soundtrack accompanied the models as they strutted through the main floor. Though most of us will probably never wear Denma’s designs, nor find them practical or appealing, I think it’s important to find appreciation for his creativity as an artist. His SS23 collection is a direct response to society’s infatuation with status, money, and our toxic imprisonment to the corporations who satiate our blind consumerism.
On a more accessible level outside the haute couture runway, ready-to-wear fashion trends have also reflected our collective mental state as a society. Many of the trends Gen Zers follow today hold an overwhelming sense of nostalgia for the past. This became even more apparent during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, where we saw a mass resurgence of prairie dresses and puffed sleeves, rebranded as the “cottage-core” aesthetic. As we all sat in isolation, yearning for an escape from this unprecedented reality, the cottage-core aesthetic seemingly tapped into the do-it-yourself era of sustainability for many young people. Now that we’re finally entering the endemic stage of the pandemic, another shift in fashion is rapidly taking place: the resurgence of Y2K fashion. Experts foresaw the resurgence way back in 2019, with many of us older Gen Zers and Millennials cringing in fear at the idea of low-rise jeans making a come-back. Those of us who are old enough may remember the trauma of unhealthily trying to attain unrealistic body standards. It was an awful time for body positivity! Fast forward to 2022, and low-rise jeans, micro mini-skirts, cargo pants, crochet tops/dresses, and silk scarves are flooding clothing racks.
It’s hard to predict how long this Y2K craze will last…maybe a few months, maybe two years, maybe even a decade. Fashion experts are already predicting that the Y2K trends could be eclipsed by a grunge resurgence. Inevitably, we’ll all eventually settle into this rapidly changing era of 2020s fashion, but I’d encourage you not to focus too much on following the latest fast-fashion trends. Instead, follow Denma’s example. Dig deep for your truth. Be bold. Let your clothes be a personal expression, and let your mindset be your inspiration. Be your own bastion for fashion. This is what defines true style.
The Student Movement is the official student newspaper of Andrews University. Opinions expressed in the Student Movement are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the editors, Andrews University or the Seventh-day Adventist church.